TRANSPORTING
ELECTRIC
MODELS
By Terry Dunn | terrydunn74@gmail.com
I OFTEN SEE posts on social media that are submitted by modelers who are preparing to head to big flying events. While I share those modelers’ pre-event excitement, I sometimes cringe at the attached photos of vehicles that are stuffed to the gills with model airplanes in every available space. Of course, a big part of me is worried about the safety of those precious model airplanes. Another part of me wonders if their car radios are loud enough to cover the irritating squeaks, rattles, and clunks as the intertwined mass of airplanes shimmies and shifts with every mile.
Transporting your models to a big event (or even just to your club field) does not have to be sloppy or haphazard. Throughout the years, I have figured out a few simple tricks that allow me to fit a lot of models into my car while also keeping them safe, secure, and silent for the entire drive. I realize that many of you are much more meticulous than I am and already have transportation strategies of your own. That’s awesome. This edition of the column is for those of you who could use a little help. I think you know who you are.
Be Realistic
My first piece of advice is also probably the most effective: Don’t take more models than you actually need to an event. I can’t tell you how many times I have reached the end of an event and realized that there were one or more models that never even made it out of my car. Time truly flies when you’re having fun. Between chatting with friends, checking out everyone else’s models, and just relaxing, my actual flying time never seems to match my expectations.
I have slowly learned to scale back the number of models that I bring to various events. Consequently, it is easier to pack the models that I do select. Before you start playing “Airplane Tetris” to stuff your car with models, ask yourself whether you really need to take a large fleet in the first place.
Peel and Stick
Some of you who are reading this have trailers or vans with elaborate racks and shelving to secure your models while on the road. Most of us, however, get by with our normal daily drivers, usually some flavor of an SUV.
Personally, I drive a Ford Flex. With two rows of folding rear seats, it has an impressive volume for hauling model airplanes of all sizes. Raise your hand if your aeromodeling addiction influenced your most recent car purchase. Yeah ... me too.
The storage areas of most newer vehicles are lined with automotive carpet, which feels very similar to the loop (soft) side of Velcro (aka hook-and-loop tape). We can
use that to our advantage. It just so happens that the hook side of Velcro sticks quite well to automotive carpet.
With electric-powered models, we don’t have to worry about oily drips and residues that are common with wet-fuel models. We can place an electric-powered model directly on the carpet and secure it in place with a strip of hook tape. I purchased a roll of 1-inch-wide sew-on (no adhesive backing) hook tape and cut it into different lengths to create straps for holding down my various models. Most of my straps range from 12 to 24 inches long.
For my models with landing gear, I wrap a strap around one of the gear struts, pull it snug, and then press the hook side of the strap into the carpet. This is usually sufficient to keep the model in place. With some larger airplanes, I will strap down two of the struts.
With my belly-landers, I simply place the model where I want it on the carpet and secure it with one or more straps over
the fuselage or wing. If I’m in doubt, I will add another strap. If I am worried about the scratchy texture of the strap damaging the model’s finish, I will place a soft cloth between the strap(s) and the model.
Going Vertical
There are times when the footprint of my Flex’s storage area is not large enough for all of the models that I want to bring to an event, so I found a simple way to add a second layer of storage. I used 1 x 2 lumber to create three crossbeams within the car. Two of these crossbeams rest on the sills of the car’s rearmost side windows. I wrapped hook tape over both ends of the crossbeams and secured it all with staples. The hook tape engages with self-adhesive loop tape on the windowsills to hold the crossbeams in place.
The third crossbeam is suspended from the overhead handles that are located by the rear passenger doors. I use bungee cords between the crossbeam and the connection points on the floor to prevent this crossbeam from swaying as I drive. Because all three crossbeams are held in place with only Velcro and bungee cords, I can easily remove them when I need the back seats for carrying people (how boring).
All of the crossbeams are covered with a pool noodle and wrapped with a spiral of self-adhesive loop tape. This provides a soft surface to place things on the crossbeams (often wings) and secure them with my hook tape straps. This system has proven to be quite adaptable to carrying a variety of models.
You might have to experiment to find the best way to pack a specific selection of models. Take your time and find a layout that you like. Once you get it nailed down, snap a few photos with your phone so that you know where to pack everything for the trip home. You will be glad you did.
Final Approach
I hope that you are able to apply one or more of these strategies to improve your experience of transporting models. I would also like to hear about other methods that some of you use.
As always, I look forward to your feedback.
