CL Aerobatics
Frank McMillan, 12106 Gunter Grv., San Antonio TX 78231
IT'S THE MIDDLE of the holidays as I write this column. It's been some time since I've flown, and I really have the urge to go "round in circles." That's typical of the midwinter doldrums, and this is the time to think about the upcoming flying season and get prepared for it. Most of what I'm going to discuss certainly applies to the competition modeler, but it should also be of interest as a guide to the beginning flier.
The first point I should make is a policy I set for myself many years ago: Don't use anything you have to depend on without having a backup! That applies to engine, tank, propeller, and lines, all the way to nuts and bolts. If it can fail, it will, and if you can lose it, you will. At this time of year you have time to plan and acquire (buy, make, etc.) what you need.
A second point applies more broadly to our part of the hobby/sport. Many of the items that make up our flying packages are developed and marketed by cottage-industry entrepreneurs. What is available is truly marvelous, but you have to anticipate your needs and requirements, and be patient.
The best source for learning what is available is Special Interest Groups with publications, such as Stunt News for Control Line Aerobatics. For information contact Shawn Fancher, 158 Flying Cloud Isle, Foster City CA 94404; Tel.: (650) 345-0130.
Back to preparation. When you put last year's airplane away, did you clean and prepare it for storage? You might have to use it again, and it should be ready to take off the wall and go. I usually take out the power package, prep the engine with after-run oil (air-tool or hobby oil for that purpose), and bag it. I clean the whole interior of the model, checking for cracks, etc. Then I repair structurally and cosmetically.
Check your propellers. Were you satisfied with the performance package, or did you feel the need to try another approach? I recommend trying what you haven't used on the off chance that there may be more available.
Now you need to look at backups. You don't want to be in the predicament of having a one-of-a-kind, best propeller break. It's better to have several good propellers than one that can be damaged at the most inopportune time. I will also highly recommend considerable investments in a stock of "black gold," or what we commoners refer to as carbon/epoxy propellers.
The tank is another component of your power system. If it's metal, clean it thoroughly inside and out. Check for leaks. Make sure you check the interior plumbing for cracks. After flushing with methanol or thinner, put in some after-run oil, rotate the tank to coat the inside, and seal it. If the tank is plastic, inspect it for leaks and replace the interior tubing.
Consider the tanks you used this past season as backups. Get several new tanks and set them up. The problem with plastic tanks is that the plastic shell ages and eventually becomes brittle. The same goes for the stopper, which is the most usual source of leaks.
The engine is next. Clean the exterior thoroughly, distribute some after-run oil throughout the engine, and you're ready to bag it. With a new plug you'll be ready to go.
But what is your status on engines? How much time do you have on available engines?
You should try to have several engines running in the same model to make sure you have a reliable backup and to even out the time the engines are used. Above all, don't be tempted to run one engine that is really good to the exclusion of a low-time engine. Make them both run.
As with your other consumables, your engines have finite lives. They are governed by how well you run them. The new, modern engines should have a life span upward of 1,000 flights if they are well lubricated and not overheated, but you have the responsibility of controlling their environment. Get a few hard runs on one, and you will shorten the life span, the power, and quality of the run.
Be aware of where you are in the life cycle of your engine, and act
However, now it's time to consider changing some parameters such as the length and perhaps the handle settings.
Line length is usually one of my initial coarse adjustments when I'm setting up a new airplane. Experience has shown me that 6 to 8 ft from the center of the model to the handle is a good starting number for the piped 60 airplanes. With a well used set of lines, I start experimenting by shortening in three- to five-inch increments.
At some point you may experience an improvement, but you may only confirm your original length. If that is a potential result, why make that set of lines unusable?
The answer is two-fold. First, and most important, is that I want you to start the flying season with new lines. Second, why not learn some useful information? You might really make some gains. The worst you can do is throw out a set of lines you should discard as a matter of practice.
Flying lines are a consumable item. To be safe, they must be changed on a regular basis. You need to inspect their condition continually, using the AMA rules as a guideline. Aside from this being a very important safety factor, all the hard work you did on your model is on the line.
Cables can last as long as the condition is good and you can maintain a clean, non-stick surface. However, I would change them at least a couple of times during the season, just to maximize performance.
Solid lines are more sensitive to actual wear. The consensus of many fliers who use solids is that near 100 flights it becomes difficult to maintain the lines in top condition. Consider a change before major contests. One trick to extend the life of solids is to switch them end for end. This puts the wear point nearer the handle and a fresh area near the model. However, this is a short-term solution.
Don't overlook the cable in the handle. This cable is subjected to wear and fatigue at the adjustment points. You can minimize these by rounding all points where the cable contacts, but I recommend that you change the cable every year.
I hope this brief survey has you thinking about what you need to do to maintain your model and support equipment through the winter and into the flying season.
New items: Control handles can be a very personal item. One of the best — the Dick Byron handle — has not been available for several years, but I have received word that Dick has decided to reintroduce his handle in two sizes: 5½ inches and 5 inches.
These handles have the usual adjustments of line neutral, line spacing and overhang. They are made from selected hardwoods and are carved by hand to fit. These are excellent handles, and I recommend them.
Contact Dick Byron at 3325 Galaxy Bay Dr., Grand Prairie TX 75052; Tel.: (972) 336-0445. kg
Transcribed from original scans by AI. Minor OCR errors may remain.
